notes on the cowl

these are some notes on the cowl:
When drafting the cowl, remember that the shoulder neck point is a central point- one of the axes should be on this line; then the other line should at least lie on the bottom part of the center front line- the length of the cowl drape is from the shoulder neck point and this is the new neck line.

sleeve and jacket

These are notes on the sleeve and the jacket:
the sleeve is a pattern piece and the area around the armhole is a pattern piece and the sleeve must be fitted into the armhole. This is the right word: 'to fit'.

When sewing the sleeve in, the sleeve is sewn right side to right side. Use a gathering stitch to ease the sleeve piece in ; There is also the matching of the points on the sleeve to the armhole-
The sleeve seam is sewn as well as the underarm side seam and shoulder seam; thus the sleeve is inserted into the circular hole-
The nature of sewing-in, fitting-in must be exact and precise- seam allowances should be commensurate with the aim of fitting the sleeve in - In suits and jackets you note a certain puffiness at the sleeve area- sometimes there is a tightness--
How do we get the right degree of puffiness?; How do we 'ease' this tightness away for better comfort while also maintaining that degree of formality ; Formality and informality are important elements of the jacket.