Thursday, October 11, 2007

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

link

here is a link re: hunting clothes
http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tartan_types/hunting.cfm.htm

Hunting Clothes

What are hunting breeches? How should hunting breeches be worn? From what material are hunting breeches made? Here is a link to an interesting image of hunting breeches?
http://en.chevalpower.com/proddetail_10606_001.htm

As the description says, the company makes handmade breeches made from Bedford Cord (80% wool, 20% cotton) or Cavalry Twill (100% wool). There is great detail here and an obvious aim for good fit and structure. The description says that the breeches are 'traditionally styled with split or fly front, high waist for support and buttons for braces or belt loops and knee buttons for garter straps'. The company is called French's Sportswear and is one of the best manufacturers of hunting breeches.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

notes on the cowl

these are some notes on the cowl:
When drafting the cowl, remember that the shoulder neck point is a central point- one of the axes should be on this line; then the other line should at least lie on the bottom part of the center front line- the length of the cowl drape is from the shoulder neck point and this is the new neck line.

sleeve and jacket

These are notes on the sleeve and the jacket:
the sleeve is a pattern piece and the area around the armhole is a pattern piece and the sleeve must be fitted into the armhole. This is the right word: 'to fit'.

When sewing the sleeve in, the sleeve is sewn right side to right side. Use a gathering stitch to ease the sleeve piece in ; There is also the matching of the points on the sleeve to the armhole-
The sleeve seam is sewn as well as the underarm side seam and shoulder seam; thus the sleeve is inserted into the circular hole-
The nature of sewing-in, fitting-in must be exact and precise- seam allowances should be commensurate with the aim of fitting the sleeve in - In suits and jackets you note a certain puffiness at the sleeve area- sometimes there is a tightness--
How do we get the right degree of puffiness?; How do we 'ease' this tightness away for better comfort while also maintaining that degree of formality ; Formality and informality are important elements of the jacket.